Renowned dermatologists use science-backed skincare to promote skin longevity — and here’s how you can benefit from it.

Like most dermatologists, when I started my career, my standard skincare advice was simple: moisturise and wear sunscreen. However, the science around topical skincare has progressed immensely in the last 10–15 years, proving the undoubted efficacy of various skincare ingredients.

Skin science and skin ageing expertise

As an honorary lecturer in skin ageing, I’ve worked with some of the world’s most renowned skin ageing researchers — Prof Rachel Watson, Prof Mike Sheratt, Prof Chris Griffiths — who are unlocking impressive scientific benefits of skincare ingredients. This, coupled with my specialism in skin cancer management, led to insights into reversing UV damage and promoting skin longevity.

UV impact on skin longevity

Longevity science is progressing. We need to invest in our health now to remain healthy in later life — and it’s the same for your skin. Skin longevity introduces various practices to help our skin look and feel as healthy as possible for as long as possible. No quick fixes or fads; rather science-backed, easy-to-maintain principles.

A staggering 80% of skin ageing is a build-up of cellular damage caused by chronic UV exposure. This happens because UVA and UVB rays disrupt many cellular processes in the skin, causing inflammation, DNA damage and altering the immune function of our skin. Damage that accumulates can lead to pre-cancer and cancer — with rates on the rise. Over 224,000 skin cancers were diagnosed in 2019, an increase of over a quarter compared to 2013.¹

Yes, some are blessed with genetically great skin (intrinsic ageing), but that’s not the case for most of us. There are many extrinsic factors contributing to ageing acceleration. The main culprits are ultraviolet radiation from the sun and our environmental exposures.

A staggering 80% of skin ageing is a build-up of
cellular damage caused by chronic UV exposure.

Practising lifelong skin habits

When advising patients on skincare routines, I encourage healthy, lifelong habits. Practise good sun protection (don’t seek a tan, wear daily sunscreen and sit in the shade where you can); maintain a healthy, varied diet; and maintain a consistent skincare routine.

That’s not to say you can’t enjoy the outdoors. Despite understanding UV damage, we encourage an outdoor lifestyle as it’s linked with good physical and mental health, wellbeing and longevity. Naturally, as we age, our skin’s ability to self-repair declines.

There are now myriads of skincare actives (non-prescription and prescription only) that can both protect and repair ageing and sun-damaged skin but understanding these and incorporating them into a routine to suit your skin is complex. The future of skincare longevity is personalised products, delivered in easy-to-follow routines, with progress mapped by dermatologists.

[1] https://academic.oup.com/bjd/article/188/6/777/7051650.

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Don’t neglect the health of your scalp, says Consultant Dermatologist Dr Sharon Wong. You should treat it with the seriousness that you treat the rest of your skincare routine.

More of us realise the importance of skin health these days. Yet, it’s easy to neglect the skin on our scalp. “There’s been an ‘out of sight, out of mind’ approach to scalp health,” insists Dr Sharon Wong, Consultant Dermatologist. “But I think that’s changing, and it should because — just like the rest of our skin — the scalp can be affected by skin ageing, sun damage and skin cancer. Plus, scalp health governs hair health.”

Factors causing scalp health disruption

‘External aggressors’ — including extreme heat and cold, environmental pollution and oily and waxy hair styling products — can disrupt the harmony of the scalp microbiome (ecosystem of microorganisms that naturally live on the scalp). Skin can become dry, itchy and flaky. “Internal aggressors, such as hormonal changes and stress, can also affect scalp health,” says Dr Wong.

The most common scalp condition that Dr Wong sees in her clinic is seborrheic dermatitis, a form of scalp eczema which, at the mild end of the spectrum, presents as visible flakes of dandruff. “Patients tend to have the moderate and severe form where the skin is inflamed and uncomfortable,” she says. “Symptoms include itching, burning or disconcerting crawling sensations. It can disturb sleep and focus. In extreme cases, patients can feel extremely self-conscious and experience a level of social withdrawal.”

If you’re concerned that you have
a scalp health issue, your first port
of call should be your GP.

Making scalp health part of regular skincare routine

Alongside medical treatments, Dr Wong may suggest cosmetic products, such as Dercos Anti-Dandruff Shampoo by Vichy, which is recommended by dermatologists. “The ingredient selenium disulfide can reduce the amount of yeast on the scalp while salicylic acid has a descaling property,” she says. “What a lot of people don’t realise is that common conditions like dandruff come and go. So, even when you’re flake-free, you should continue with maintenance to try and prevent relapsing.”

“If you’re concerned that you have a scalp health issue, your first port of call should be your GP,” says Dr Wong. “If your condition worsens or you still experience symptoms, see a dermatologist.”

Holistic hair skinification approach

Plus, take a tip from health-aware consumers who are switched on to an emerging trend known as the ‘skinification’ of hair. “Essentially, this means they want to learn more about the steps they can take and the products they should be using to achieve ultimate scalp health,” says Dr Wong. “Just as they do for the rest of their skincare routine.”

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Irina Mazur

Chief Product and Marketing Officer, Revieve

Learn how brands are transforming skincare with digital innovation. Enhance your beauty routine with personalised products and tailored technology.

By adopting a unique skincare philosophy, brands can enhance their digital presence and consumer engagement. This approach enables brands to differentiate themselves from competitors, capturing the attention of niche markets and broad audiences alike. It also facilitates brand-aligned storytelling, integrating core values into communication channels and offering tailored product configurations and customised skin assessments.

Reimagining skincare: the tech transformation

Imagine a world where your skincare routine is as personalised and dynamic as the technology you use daily. The skincare industry is undergoing a seismic shift, combining the sensory richness of in-store consultations with the limitless capabilities of digital innovation. This transformation reshapes how we perceive and treat skin concerns.

Consumers now navigate multiple touchpoints to discover products that truly meet their needs, starting online with personalised routines or testing products in-store. Blending digital ease with hands-on experience, brands can ensure a seamless and enjoyable skincare journey.

Synergy of omnichannel skincare

Advanced tools like GenAI and data analytics enable beauty advisors to offer spot-on, personalised advice, boosting consumer confidence in every choice. Today’s shoppers crave a unified experience, and technologies such as QR codes, smart mirrors and digital displays transform the customer journey into an interactive adventure.

This integration weaves the brand’s story and values into every step, creating a cohesive and engaging shopping experience. By blending the physical and digital worlds, beauty tech leaders forge deep, lasting connections with customers.

By blending the physical and digital worlds, beauty tech
leaders forge deep, lasting connections with customers.

High-tech solutions for acne-free skin

One area where this technology excels is in acne treatment. Acne is a major concern for many, with millions searching for solutions online each month. Revieve’s collaboration with The Inkey List has developed the Acne Analyzer Pro, which uses sophisticated algorithms to analyse skin conditions and recommend tailored treatments.

This technology provides personalised advice and helps effectively treat acne without needing to visit a store. The omnichannel approach is a game-changer for skincare shopping — personal, engaging and highly effective.

The horizon of skincare innovation

The fusion of technology and skincare is not just a trend but a revolution, promising personalised and effective skin health solutions. Innovations like generative AI and virtual try-on experiences are set to further revolutionise the industry.

By combining in-store expertise with advanced online tools, brands can offer a comprehensive and seamless customer experience. As technology continues to advance, the possibilities for innovation in skincare are boundless, promising a future where everyone can achieve optimal skin health with ease.

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Patients with invasive non-melanoma skin cancers have often had to endure painful surgery which can leave scars. However, a non-invasive, pain-free option is now available.

Non-melanoma skin cancers (NMSCs) — which include basal cell carcinomas and squamous cell carcinomas — are worryingly common. Between 2007–2017, incidences increased by 33%, reaching 7.7 million cases worldwide. One in five people over 70 have been diagnosed with at least one NMSC.

Treating non-melanoma skin cancers

If found early enough, these types of skin cancers are very treatable. “In the main, NMSCs are not life-threatening as they only metastasise in rare cases — unlike melanomas, which can be highly virulent,” explains Prof Dr med. Julia Tietze, from the Clinic and Polyclinic for Dermatology and Venerology at University Medical Centre, Rostock, Germany. “Nevertheless, invasive non-melanoma skin cancers are locally destructive and should be removed.”

It may be possible to treat a superficial NMSC with a topical cream, but, usually, surgery is recommended for invasive tumours. Unfortunately, these cancers are often found in conspicuous locations such as the head and neck, making this intervention problematic.

Removing non-melanoma skin cancers without surgery

“The downside with surgery is that it can result in scarring or, in some cases, disfigurement,” says Prof Dr Tietze. “Plus, there is the pain of local anaesthesia injections. If further NMSCs are diagnosed, patients may be increasingly hesitant to take the surgical route.” Alternative treatment options are needed, particularly for tumours located on sensitive areas such as the nose, ears or lips.

However, a non-surgical, non-invasive epidermal radiotherapy is now available for NMSC patients. Unlike surgery, the treatment is quick and easy: the lesion is identified and covered with a clear plastic film; a radioactive Rhenium-188 paste is applied, which begins to target and kill cancer cells. After some time — usually between 45 minutes and 180 minutes — the film and paste are removed, and the patient is free to go home.

Non-surgical treatment efficacy and availability

Treatment can be completed in one session. It’s highly effective, with complete tumour regression reported in 98.5% of lesions treated. Currently, it’s only available privately in the UK, although NICE (National Institute for Health and Care Excellence) has recently produced positive guidance on the therapy. Hopefully, it could be available on the NHS in the long term. “Many of my patients procrastinate about surgery because of the pain,” says Prof Dr Tietze. “However, this treatment is pain-free, effective and leaves no scarring — it’s a very good option for them.”

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Gemma Jones

Brand Trainer, Bioderma UK and Ireland

Ecobiology in skincare treatment centres around mimicking the skin’s natural biology to promote healthy, balanced skin. This can be an effective way to treat patients with acne.

Acne is surprisingly difficult to define, admits Dr Bernard Ho, Consultant Dermatologist at St George’s Hospital, London. From a medical standpoint, it’s not just the odd pimple or spot. Acne is a more complex condition where the skin becomes inflamed with multiple persistent pustules and papules, generally appearing on the face but can also present on the chest and back.

Acne treatment approaches and complexities

“The underlying cause of acne remains unknown,” says Dr Ho. “However, there are many hypotheses about the factors that contribute to it, including hormonal changes, clogged pores, stress and genetics.”

Part of the ecobiology philosophy is using products made with ‘biomimetic’ ingredients; they mimic natural constituents found in the skin.

What’s certain is that, depending on its severity, acne can have a scarring physical and emotional impact, so it’s important to treat it effectively. “We classify patients as having mild, moderate or severe acne,” says Dr Ho. “How they respond to their condition very much depends on the individual. Some people can have lots of spots and scarring and remain psychologically unaffected. Others with fewer spots and scarring can be deeply impacted.”

Acne particularly affects teenagers and young adults, but it can occur in later life, too — and treatment is definitely not ‘one-size-fits-all’. “If acne is severe, we may prescribe systemic treatments such as antibiotics, vitamin A derivative tablets or hormonal therapies,” says Dr Ho. “If the condition is mild to moderate, over-the-counter options may be suitable.”

Ecobiology treatment for healthy skin recovery

Gemma Jones, Brand Trainer UK and Ireland at skincare company Bioderma, highlights the principle of ‘ecobiology’ in over-the-counter skin treatments. Ecobiology combines the ecology and biology of the skin.

“This is the scientifical approach that the skin is a living ecosystem that is always interacting with its environment,” she explains. “If treatments help the skin adapt quickly to its environment and allow it to live according to its natural biology, it can recover and become healthy again.”

Biomimetic ingredients for skin balance

Part of the ecobiology philosophy is using products made with ‘biomimetic’ ingredients; they mimic natural constituents found in the skin. “When it’s young and healthy, the skin has everything it needs to protect and support itself,” says Jones. “Unfortunately, lifestyle factors, an incorrect skincare routine, exposure to the environment and the ageing process can throw things off balance. Targeting the biological causes of skin conditions with ingredients that mimic these natural constituents can give patients healthier skin over the long term.”

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Professor Jane Armstrong

Researcher, British Skin Foundation

A recently developed antibody test, AMBLor, can tell doctors whether a patient’s melanoma is at very low risk of spreading or in need of closer care.

Melanoma is the most serious of all skin cancers, with 20,800 new diagnoses projected this year alone in the UK. It spreads (metastasises) very easily, so everyone with the condition is followed up and investigated thoroughly after the initial surgery to remove the tumour.

Melanoma research progress

The British Skin Foundation (BSF) first provided joint funding (with NIHR, Melanoma Focus and Newcastle University) for Professor Penny Lovat’s work in identifying two important protein biomarkers implicated in the formation of melanomas. The company, AMLo Biosciences — co-founded with Dr Marie Labus — has gone from a Newcastle University spinout to an employer of over 20 people in the UK and USA.

People at low risk could be spared
subsequent tests and follow-up appointments.

Antibody test determines metastasis risk

Melanoma is usually diagnosed early where the tumour has not yet metastasised. However, up to 20% of people with an early-stage tumour will still die from the condition; this group represents the most deaths from melanoma skin cancer. This was due to clinicians being unable to identify which patients required close monitoring and which ones could be relieved from frequent visits and tests.

The work helped Professor Lovat and AMLo to develop an antibody test, AMBLor, that seeks out the presence of two protective proteins in the skin over melanoma. It informs doctors if a melanoma is at very low risk of spreading and who might need closer care.

People at low risk could be spared subsequent tests and follow-up appointments and suffer less worry about the potential cancer progress. In 2024, Professor Lovat, with Professor Jane Armstrong and 26 other experts across the world, published the final validation of this work in the British Journal of Dermatology.

Studying melanoma metastasis biomarkers

Moreover, the BSF has recently funded additional research under the management of Professor Lovat and Dr Ioana Cosgarea, working with Professor Jane Armstrong to look for biomarkers that might further stratify each melanoma according to the risk of metastasis. They recently published a poster at an international conference confirming the role of AMBRA1 protein in the tissue surrounding the tumour.

The project has also yielded information about other important proteins that may be key to unlocking further information for doctors treating people with melanomas. This work has been made possible with BSF’s support.

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For acne awareness month, consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto highlights how diet, lifestyle and mental health can affect acne — and why there’s more to it than what you eat.

The factors contributing to acne are complex. Nutrition, or diet, is just one of them. Genetics, hormones, skincare and mental health are just as important.

Nutrition moderation over restriction

“Dairy gets a bad rap,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist in London’s Harley Street. Yet, sugar and whey protein supplements are more troublesome. “Whey protein supplements have quite a different dairy content compared to a splash of milk in your coffee or cereal,” she adds.

Oat milk is a popular dairy alternative because it tastes better. “The problem is oat milk has a high glycaemic index. It spikes your blood sugar levels more than other plant-based milks,” she explains. However, that doesn’t mean you can’t have sugar, stresses Dr Mahto. “There are no real foods that I would say are off limits. It’s about balance and moderation,” she says.

Look after your skin the way you would
look after any other organ in your body.

Holistic, patient-centred acne assessment

Before even looking at a patient’s skin, Dr Mahto talks to them first. The duration and location of the acne, past treatments, triggers, underlying conditions, medications, supplements, dietary restrictions and, in women, menstrual cycles, menopause and pregnancy plans are all important. For instance, vitamin A reduces oil production, but it can also be teratogenic. “It will damage an unborn baby,” she warns.

“Crucially, I want to know about mental health,” she insists. “Acne is one of those conditions where we know there are significant mental health issues associated with it. Low self-esteem, poor body image — all of that comes part and parcel.”

Stress and mental health affect multiple skin conditions; acne is no exception. “Half the job is getting the skin to look good. The other half is getting people to feel good about their skin,” she adds.

Finding the right acne treatment

Nutritional interventions, while promising, require caution due to the individual, personal factors affecting acne. “There are no superfoods for skin. It’s not about that. It’s about balance,” says Dr Mahto. “Look after your skin the way you would look after any other organ in your body.”

Personalised guidance from qualified dermatology and nutrition experts is essential. Many waste thousands of pounds trying the wrong treatments. “Rather than figure it out yourself, see your GP first. If you can, then go straight to a dermatologist or nutritionist. There’s a lot of conflicting information on the internet,” she concludes.

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Skin health significantly impacts people’s wider wellbeing. We must invest in more psychodermatology research, exploring the links between skin and mind to make a real difference in people’s lives.

The health and appearance of our skin are closely connected with our wider physical, psychological and social wellbeing. In a new survey conducted by the Skin Health Alliance, 88% of people reported that they felt self-conscious about their skin.

A further 64% said that their skin has impacted their confidence in a work or social setting. The survey respondents were clear: the impact of skin goes much further than skin deep.  

Psychodermatology explores skin-mind connection

The field of psychodermatology research, which aims to understand the links between the skin and the mind, has grown rapidly in recent years. We now have good evidence that people living with a chronic skin condition or disease are at higher risk of developing a range of body image and mental health problems, including anxiety and depression.

Furthermore, emerging research suggests that there may be a ‘brain-skin axis’ through which psychological stress is translated from the brain to the skin and back again. This bi-directional link could explain the stress-flare cycle in inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema.

64% said that their skin has impacted their
confidence in a work or social setting.

Collaborative research needed with new funding

This body of research shows great promise, but we have a long way to go in improving outcomes for people. For example, we urgently need research into the potential of pharmaceutical treatments to break the stress-flare cycle as well as the best way to provide psychosocial support to people who are distressed about their skin. It is vital that clinicians, academics, industry partners and patient charities work together to expand the breadth and depth of psychodermatology research.

Scientific funding opportunities in this field have been limited until now, so it is exciting to see that the Skin Health Alliance has donated £200,000 to the British Skin Foundation with a significant portion earmarked for a psychodermatology research grant. This grant is currently open for applications, with further information available from the British Skin Foundation website.

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NHS dermatology services are facing unprecedented challenges due to long waits, high referral rates and lack of specialists, which ultimately impact patient care.

Skin disease is a significant health burden and represents one in four primary care consultations, despite primary care clinicians often receiving little to no dermatology training.

Dermatology education for healthcare professionals

For over 30 years, The Primary Care Dermatology Society (PCDS) has been a pivotal national organisation committed to enhancing the dermatology knowledge and skills of the primary care team. They empower practitioners to diagnose and manage dermatological conditions more effectively, thus improving patient outcomes and reducing the burden on specialist services.

The society represents the diverse healthcare team looking after patients in the community, including GPs, nurses, podiatrists, pharmacists and other allied healthcare professionals.

Education lies at the heart
of dermatology innovation.

Contributing towards dermatology education

Education lies at the heart of dermatology innovation, and the Society is committed to advancing dermatology education by providing a diverse and comprehensive range of resources and high-quality educational events. These include:

• The PCDS App: access to dermatology information and guidance at your fingertips, empowering clinicians to make informed decisions at the point of care.
• The PCDS Website: a fantastic resource with a plethora of information, including a diagnostic tool, an A–Z list of skin conditions and best practices.
• An annual conference with educational content (lectures and workshops) for the whole primary care team.
• National and international education events: 
  • General Dermatology and Skin Lesions – dermatology from scratch and essential dermatology courses
  • Dermoscopy training courses (beginner to advanced)
  • Annual International Dermoscopy Conference – delivered by international experts in the field of dermoscopy
  • Royal College of Surgeons-accredited skin surgery courses
• Patient information leaflets and guides, such as what to look for when self-examining moles and skin lesions.

As the field of dermatology evolves, the Society remains a trusted source of dermatology education and expertise, guiding primary care providers towards excellence in dermatology practice.

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Over the last decade, melanoma skin cancer incidence rates have increased by around a third (32%) in the UK. It is estimated that, across the country, sunbeds cause about 440 melanomas and around 100 deaths each year. 

New data released this month by the charity Melanoma Focus has found that over a quarter (28%) of adults in the UK say they use sunbeds, rising to 43% of 18–25 year olds.  

The charity, along with medical experts, has expressed serious concerns about the high usage of sunbeds and its impact on the rising number of skin cancer cases across the country.

Skin cancer high mortality rates

Melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, kills 2,300 people in the UK per year. In 2009, the International Agency for Research on Cancer classified ultraviolet light emitted from tanning beds as carcinogenic and placed artificial sources of ultraviolet radiation alongside tobacco and asbestos in the highest category of carcinogen.

Youth awareness of sunbed risks

The new research found that public awareness of the dangers of sunbed use is low; only 62% of people know that sunbed use increases the risk of skin cancer. This dropped to 52% of 18–25 year olds, very worryingly, 23% of them believe that sunbed use actually decreases the risk of skin cancer.  

The high use and lack of awareness of the dangers in younger people is a particular concern, as studies have found that first exposure to indoor tanning before the age of 35 is associated with a 75% increased risk of developing skin cancer.

Only 62% of people know that sunbed use increases the risk of skin cancer.

Avoid sunbed use to prevent melanoma

Susanna Daniels, CEO of Melanoma Focus, says: “The proliferation of sunbed use across the UK is alarmingly high, and it’s shocking that so many people don’t realise how dangerous they are. 

“Melanoma skin cancer rates are rising in the UK, and it’s an increasingly serious health concern. The good news is that 86% of melanomas are preventable by avoiding ultraviolet radiation, which comes from the sun or from sunbeds.

“We strongly advise against using sunbeds in order to protect your skin and reduce your chances of being diagnosed with melanoma or other skin cancers.”

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